On 03/28/2006 Prince Moore wrote:

I love this Lic. plate frame. It can be wired anyway you like ( run - turn - or brake lites). I set mine up to work as extra brake lights. Did I say that I love this! It really lights up the back of my bike. I also used a "back off" thingie so when I hit the brakes the whole plate blinks 3 or 4 times before it goes to a solid bright red light.

On 01/07/2006 CeeAre wrote:

This is an incredible product! Expensive, monstrous install, but worth every penny and drop of sweat. These things BLAZE! One thing that had bugged me from day one on the 1600 classic was the position of the turn sigs. They are set so low on the Vulcan that, while I REALLY like the low-slung look of them, there existed a safety issue there that gave me pause. There are 12 wires comin' outta the back of this puppy, and when properly wired in conjunction with the Kury run/brake/turn thingy, the vertical LEDs serve as all three functions (run/turn/brake) while the horizontal ones serve as run/brake. Make sure you mark the ends of the wires for the left and right turn sig BEFORE you start routing them...those 4 bundles of 3 wires each all look the same when they're under the fender. The wiring for that is as follows: Left bundle: Red wire to green(or whatever your bikes wiring code says...all these color codes are Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 specific), black wire to black/yellow (ground), white wire "dead" Right bundle: Red wire to Gray, black to black/yellow, white wire "dead". Top and bottom bundles: Red wires to blue, white wires to red, black wires to black/yellow. I started the install using the "T" connectors and spades, but quickly discovered after about 3 of them that this was NOT gonna be a good idea...it would take up too much space in the (sealed, protected) area under the fender. So I switched at that point to solder/shrink wrap. Took off the tail light, routed the bundles through the new hole and back out the tail light hole, and soldered/wrapped them there using jumps. Took about 4 hours in all, would have only taken about two hours if I had started off soldering instead of screwing around standing on my head tryin' to get the damn "T" connectors on under the fender, but the final install looks OEM! For running the wires through the plastic plate holder and the license plate bracket/frame, I used the 5/8" rubber grommets that were on the original front turn sig bar that I still had in the "old parts box" from when I went to the F & S light bar. Perfect size for the 4 bundles to pass, worked great! (BTW, if you're looking for a 5/8" bit with a 3/8" drive, don't bother going to Home Depot...they will spend a lot of breath telling you that it doesn't exist 'cause it would burn out your drill while they are trying to sell you a 1/2" drive drill. Just go to Ace Hardware, ask the guy for it, he will hand it to you, and you're on your way! And, obviously, start with